Wednesday, February 1, 2012

I'm not a dedicated follower of Fashionism.

I am by no means a fashion snob. I don't believe in rules for dressing. I find most of the fashion blogs for men to be studies in elite preciousness and insipid tradition. While I think it's good to study what other people wear and to find out why they do it, I would never let another man tell me what armor to put on before going into battle (or Trader Joe's.) I call it Fashionism The only thing fun about rules is breaking them. If you like your Ed Hardy shirt tucked into pleated khakis with a duck shoe and a fedora why would I stop you from doing that?  Fuck, it may work for you and that's the point and I want to read your blog. For real.  My need to blog about fashion isn't to force some rigid idea about how you should put your pants on sideways after spring, it's about sharing my love of a much over looked art form and to inspire you. Clothes are an opportunity to set yourself APART. Which brings me to Thom Browne.  Thom Browne by my measure may be the most influential menswear designer in the past 20 years. A former actor turned designer he's done more to change the silhouette of mens clothes than just about anyone. He is  man clearly obsessed with that 50's and 60's Mad Men/Brooks Brothers style of dress.  He and a buddy, another out of work actor, would apparently buy old suits and recut them exaggerating the shape to make them look shrunken. Think Pee Wee Herman. Those suits eventually would become his calling card as a designer.

A Thom Browne suit is distinctive in structure and fit. The suits are composed of flat front pants with exposed ankles and a jacket that concludes mid-wrist and doesn't cover the backside. They almost always have either two or three buttons, narrow lapels, side vents, and trouser without belt loops. The designer is best known for wearing suits in a range of charcoal-grey colors, always paired with a tie cut from the same fabric, a silver tie clip, a white button down shirt, and black leather dress shoes.-Wiki

For certain Thom Browne has rules that he both lives and designs by.  However those rules break so many of the actual rules of fashion that that he must be admired for his pluck and his sense of humor, which if you can't it see you are not looking. His clothes made people furious when they arrived on the scene.  When I say people, I mean the fussy fashion fascists who can't stand a real rebel. The function of real art is to make people reconsider their parameters if not uncomfortable. He did both and his overall impact caused places like The Gap and Nordstrom to start carrying slimmer cuts of their baggy staples.  

The thing I like most about Mr. Browne is his sense of self. His clothes don't fit in any one time period. He is not a slave to trends or fads. Despite the fact that he has a rules and certain staples in his collections he's more than happy to break some of those rules every time he releases a collection. Like a great band he's always evolving without fucking too much with his original sound. He is a man with the balls to live fully in his own world. Don't get me wrong some of his stuff is insane to the point where I feel badly for the model wearing it. What's awesome is his clothes will never please everyone and he knows this, but fuck if he doesn't get mad points form me for putting it out there. You don't have to wear his clothes but I highly recommend his conviction. 

If you look at the picture at the top and then at the video below you will see what I mean. The guy is loosing his fucking marbles and it's awesome. There are no rules except the ones you make for yourself to break!  Here's to Mr Brown for breaking his. 

1 comment:

  1. Clearly someone was watching some old horror movies while under the influence of very strong drugs based on all of the weirdly stuffed clothing. However, the suit with the studs down the sides and the black pants with the kind of chain mail attached were pretty cool looking.